Modern China

 

First Opium War - Destroying the Chinese war junks. [Edward Duncan]

 

In China, the Jews have always found a safe place from the pervasive anti-Semitism found elsewhere in the world. The major faiths of China – Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism – are all philosophical schools of thought and practices which do not have conflicts of interests with Judaism, as did Christianity and Islam in the west. Furthermore, the Jews were able to live in harmony with the Chinese because of shared values, such as emphasis placed on education and respect for the elderly (filial piety and ‘honour thy father and thy mother’.)

Today, they share even more. The Chinese and the Jews both experienced unfathomable suffering during World War II - six million Jews died in the hands of the Nazis, whilst 35 million Chinese perished in the hands of the Japanese.

Modern China is often defined to have begun at the outset of the First Opium War when China was forced to open its door to international trades. Therefore, Jews who immigrated to China after the war can be thought of as Modern Jews in China.

 
 

Shanghai Jewish Chronicle, published in German, ran from 1937 to 1945. [Shanghai Jewish Refugee Museum]

 

The Jews who arrived in China (Kaifeng, in particular) before the First Opium War are physically indistinguishable from their Han neighbours because of generations of intermarriage. However, the Jews who arrived in China after the First Opium War did not intermarry and therefore remained ethnically different from Han Chinese citizens. 

This new wave of Jews, upon enlightenment, did indeed reach out to their Jewish brethren in Kaifeng, hoping to help them re-discover their Jewish heritage and reconnect with their Jewish roots.

The category of Jews who entered Modern China can be divided into three waves. The first wave comprised of Sephardic Jews who came from Iraq and India to gain wealth and create business empires; the next wave were Ashkenazi Jews who, seeking to escape the Pale of Settlements and the anti-Semitic atmosphere of the Romanov Dynasty, travelled eastwards and ended up in China; finally, came another wave of Ashkenazi Jews who similarly sought refuge from anti-Semitism – these Jews were fleeing Hitlerism.

 

First Opium War

 

An opium den in China. [Public Domain]

 

Opium was first introduced to China in the 17th century, in the form of madak, a blend of opium with tobacco smoked with bamboo pipes. Countless smoking dens popped up along the Southern coastal cities and were viewed as corrupting the Chinese both morally and physically. In 1729, Qing Emperor Yongzheng (雍正帝爱新觉罗胤祯) banned the smoking of madak. British merchants complied.

During this period, China’s interest in Western goods was very limited whilst European demand for Chinese silk and tea was insatiable. They loved the texture and beauty of silk and they found drinking tea prevented them from getting sick — instead of drinking water straight out of lakes and rivers, tea called for boiling the water first which assisted in killing bacteria and germs; however, this was not common knowledge at the time and the European contributed the health effect of drinking disinfected water to tea. The large trade deficit drained Europe of its silvers, as this was the only form of currency acceptable to the Chinese.

By 1780, the added pressure from the British East India Company’s rapidly deteriorating financial health made Britain re-evaluate and subsequently resume opium trading, despite any Chinese legislation. The British grew opium in its tropical countries, namely India, and sold it to the Chinese . By 1800, the British East India Company dominated this supremely lucrative opium market in China.

 
 

Commissioner Lin Zexu destroying opium outside of Humen Town (虎门销烟). [chinesegeography.skyrock.com]

 

In the 1830s, over 20,000 chests, each containing about 75 kilograms of opium, arrived annually in Canton, the only port open to foreign trade. Chinese consumption skyrocketed except this time, instead of madak, they smoked pure opium. The drastic increase in narcotic addicts, plus the rapid outflow of silver, caused grave concern for the Qing Imperial Court.

In 1838, Emperor Daoguang (道光帝爱新觉罗绵宁, 1820-1850) appointed special commissioner Lin Zexu (林则徐) to ban the illegal import of opium. After a letter sent to Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom pleading for a stop to the opium trade was ignored, Lin confiscated and destroyed over 20,000 chests of opium and ordered a blockade of European ships to prevent more opium from coming into Canton. 

The British retaliated with military force which resulted in a devastating defeat for the Chinese and the signing of the Treaty of Nanking in 1842. In addition to pay a large indemnity and hand Hong Kong to Britain, four additional ports — Xiamen, Fuzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai — were forced open to foreign trade. The treaty furthermore exempted all foreigners from Chinese law, meaning their degree of freedom was so significant they were essentially above the law.

 

First Wave of Jewish Immigrants - Shanghai

 

David Sassoon (seated) and his sons Elias David, Albert (Abdallah) & Sassoon David. [Public Domain]

 

The first wave of Jewish immigrants to modern China was the Sephardic Jews from Iraq and India. Their story is closely related to that of the Sassoon family. David Sassoon, treasurer of Baghdad between 1817 and 1829, moved from Baghdad to Bombay in 1832. He later became the leader of the Baghdadi Jewish community in Bombay. As British citizens, the family enjoyed exemption from Chinese laws and soon became dominant players in the trading of cotton and opium.

After the Treaty of Nanking, David Sassoon sent his sons to the newly opened treaty ports – Xiamen, Fuzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai – which, as new colonial outposts, was subject to lower tax rates, less competition, and less prejudice. David Sassoon’s elder son, Abdullah Sassoon, remained in Bombay to supervise the family’s existing business. The second son, Elias Sassoon, moved to Shanghai in 1850 in hopes to making it big in the far east.

The family made a huge fortune by exporting opium produced in India to China in exchange for tea, silk and other commodities, which were then shipped to England. By the 1870s, the Sassoon family was the leading importer of opium into China. With extreme foresight, they also bought land at unbelievably low prices; when the price rose in the following decades, the Sassoon family reaped large financial gains.

 
 

Ohel Rachel (拉结会堂) or Shanghai Association of Higher Education (上海市高等教育学会) [Zane Archives]

 

In 1921, the Sassoons constructed the Ohel Rachel (拉结会堂) with a seating capacity of 700 people. Thirty Torah scrolls were placed inside. The compound included a library, a playground and a ritual bath. It replaced the Beth El Synagogue which was built in 1887.

In 1943, the Japanese created the Restricted Sector for Stateless Refugees (无国籍难民限定地区) in the Hongkou district (虹口区). The Jews had to leave behind their beloved synagogue and move to the Shanghai Ghetto (上海难民营). Ohel Rachel was subsequently converted into a stable.

In 1949, with the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the Communist Party allowed the Jewish community to continue using the Ohel Rachel until 1952 when the synagogue was took over and stripped most of its interior furnishings. During the Cultural Revolution, the building was use as a warehouse. In 1994, the Shanghai government made it a protected architectural landmark of the city.

Today, the Ohel Rachel is used by the Shanghai Association of Higher Education (上海市高等教育学会) and closed to the public. Out of the original six, it is one of the only two synagogues still standing in Shanghai.

 
 

Cathay Hotel or Fairmont Peace Hotel (上海和平饭店) [Zane Archives]

 

Sir Victor Sassoon, grandson Elias David Sassoon, transferred much of the family’s wealth from India to Shanghai in the 1920s and 1930s. At one time, the family owned over 1,800 properties in Shanghai, including some of the most significant landmarks — the Cathay Hotel and the Cathay Theatre. 

In 1929, Sir Victor Sassoon opened the Cathay Hotel — now called the Fairmont Peace Hotel (上海和平饭店), setting an absolute new height and luxury standard for all of Asia. Situated at the intersection of the Bund and Nanjing Road — Shanghai’s busiest shopping street, this was the Sassoon’s grandest and most iconic masterpiece. It was also Shanghai’s first American-style, art deco skyscraper. Just below its copper-green, pyramid-shaped roof, on the 11th floor, was Sir Victor’s penthouse.

 
 

Interior of the Grand Ballroom at the Fairmont Peace Hotel [Zane Archives]

 

It was in this hotel that the most decadent tea dances, costume parties and grand balls were held, attracting socialites and celebrities from all over the world. Some speculated that Sir Victor’s extravagant parties were partly inspired by his spite for the many Shanghai clubs that denied him entry — because he was a Jew. His sarcastic response to the anti-Semitic world around him was to make them clamour for invitation to his opulent, air-conditioned ballroom which was designed to resembled the inside of a synagogue.

 
 

Jazz Bar at the Peace Hotel [Zane Archives]

 

During the occupation of Shanghai in the late 1930s, the Cathy Hotel was taken over and occupied by the Japanese. In 1956, the hotel reopened under the name of Peace Hotel. It was one of the only two hotels in China at the time that was allowed to accommodate foreign envoys. During the Cultural Revolution, the Gang of Four used the hotel as its command centre for the Shanghai Commune. Over its turbulent history, distinguished visitors from Charlie Chaplin, Cornelius Vanderbilt, Chiang Kai-Shek, Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton have all stayed here.

In 1949, the hotel’s legendary Jazz Bar was closed down when China classified Jazz as “yellow music,” in the same category as pornography, and was banned completely. At the end of the Culture Revolution, in the late 1970s, no one in China knew how to play Jazz anymore. The Jazz Bar had to call back its original players, all in their 80s and 90s by then, to continue the tradition. Today, the Jazz Bar is vibrant and busy, playing to the tune of a bygone era. The band members, with an average age of around 80, proudly call themselves the Old Jazz Band.

The hotel’s main entrance, facing the Huangpu River (黄浦江), is permanently closed because Feng Shui master claimed the front door should not open onto running water to prevent wealthy from flowing out. Victor’s Cafe, named after Sir Victor Sassoon, serves a variety of western pastries while occupying the prime people-watching spot on the Nanjing Road. The cafe’s signature dish is Sir Victor’s favourite chicken curry.

Without a doubt, this is the most famous hotel in China.

 
 

Cathay Theatre (国泰电影院), located at the intersection of Huaihai Road (淮海路)and Maoming Road (茂名路) [Zane Archives]

 

The Cathay Theatre (国泰电影院) was also a part of Sir Victor Sassoon’s real estate portfolio in the 1930s. Located at the intersection of Huaihai Road (淮海路) and Maoming Road (茂名路), this is one of the few Art Deco cinemas that is still operational today.

The theatre opened in 1932 with the screening of American film “A Free Soul”, starring Norma Shearer. It was not only the most magnificent and grand cinema at the time, it was also by far the biggest in Shanghai, with 1,080 seats all on one main floor.

Prior to 1949, the theatre frequently featured American and English movies, especially blockbusters from Paramount Pictures Corporation and Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, making it exceptionally popular among the foreigners as well as the locals. All movies were shown with Chinese subtitles and earphones which gave spoken translation in Chinese. Movie premiers were often screened here and celebrity figures such as Eileen Chang spotted here.

During the Cultural Revolution, the cinema was renamed People’s Cinema; much of the original interior decoration stayed intact until this period. In 1979, it resumed its original name of Cathay Theatre. In 2003, the large auditorium was split into three separate screening halls, none of the original interior survived. In the 1990s, the exterior of the theatre was granted municipal preservation status. 

 
 
 

Sir Victor Sassoon was also a strong defender of Western rights in China and offered tremendous support to the Jews in the Shanghai Ghetto.

The Sassoons were strict Orthodox Jews who worked hard to maintain their Baghdadi Jewish identity. In the early days when Shanghai was still just a tiny fishing village along the Huangpu River (黄浦江)  and lacked the infrastructure to facilitate the maintenance of a Jewish lifestyle, the Sassoons hired other Jews from Baghdad and Bombay, provided them with food and accommodation, ensured everyone observed Sabbath and Jewish holidays, and lived according to the Jewish laws. Amongst those who came from Bombay to work for the Sassoons were the Kadoories and the Hardoons who later branched off and started their own extremely successful business empires. 

 

Second Wave of Jewish Immigrants - Harbin

 
 

The second wave of Jewish immigrants to modern China was the Ashkenazi Jews, mostly from Russia. They came to China under considerably worse condition than the first wave of immigrants.

 
 

A water carrier on the Pale of Settlement. [litwackfamily.com]

 

From the reign of Catherine the Great (1762-1798), Jews of Russia were confined to live within the Pale of Settlement (1791-1917), comprised mostly of modern day Belarus, Lithuania, Moldova, and Ukraine.

Life in the Pale of Settlements was exceeding difficult and poverty-stricken. By the turn of the 19th century, five million Jews, or 40% of the world’s Jewish population, could be found within the Pale.

An unsubstantiated rumour of Jewish involvement in the assassination of Alexander II (1855-1881) led to significant outbreak of violence against the Jews; these acts of anti-Semitism are known as pograms. Alexander III (1881-1894) therefore implemented a series of anti-Semitic legislation to deter a similar fate.

Konstantin Pobedonostsev, a close advisor of Alexander III, captured the essence of the regime, “One-third of the Jews will convert, one-third will die, and one-third will emigrate.” 

 
 
 

From 1881-1920, the never-ending pogroms and the increased official repression against the Jewish population lead to more than two million Russian Jews fleeing the country. Whilst a vast majority fled to the United States and England, some Jews made their way eastwards eventually ending up in the city of Harbin.

Harbin is now the capital city of Heilongjiang Province (黑龙江省), the most north eastern province of Manchuria. It was a small fishing village prior to 1895 and served as the base of Russian military operation in Manchuria during the Russo-Japanese War (1904 - 05). For a certain period, Harbin had the largest Russian population outside of the Soviet Union; in fact, at the time of the revolution in 1917, 40,000 of the 100,000 people in Harbin were ethnically Russian. Today, it is often called the “Moscow of the East” by the Chinese although much of the Russian developed city is no longer there.

The Russian Jews came to Harbin in three relatively distinct phases.

 
 

First Phase: China Eastern Railway

Map of China Eastern Railway (东清铁路). [MIT Visualising Cultures]

 

When the First Sino-Japanese War (甲午战争) came to a close with Japanese victory in 1895, China as a power was severely undermined and sought to form alliances if it ever needed to challenge Japanese power. China, therefore, looked north and granted Russia permission to construct the Chinese Eastern Railway (东清铁路). The construction of this would provide a shortcut to the tail end of the Trans-Siberian Railway by linking Chita and Vladivostok via Harbin.

In order to expedite the completion of the China Eastern Railway, the Russian ruling class encouraged people to move eastwards and take up a role in the railway’s construction. They offered the incentive of more rights and privileges, which would not be a lot given the state of the Pale of Settlements. Nevertheless, 500 Russian Jews who were keen to having a better lifestyle found themselves in Harbin by 1903.

The construction of the railway brought an influx of people to Harbin, as well as a need for all types and goods and services. The Jews grasped onto this opportunity and involved themselves in the development of many industries, including hotels, fur trade, and wood and coal production. The Jews eventually made sure these new businesses reached beyond the borders of China, as they eventually reached the Russian Empire, as well as European countries, Japan, and even the United States.

 
 

Second Phase: Russo-Japanese War

A postcard of Harbin’s Old Synagogue, built in 1909. [Dan Ben-Canaan]

 

In the early 1900s, Japan offered to recognise Russia’s influence in Manchuria in exchange for Russia’s recognition of Japan’s influence in Korea. Upon Russia’s refusal, Japan declared war.

The Russian Jews, although denied of civil rights and confined in the Pale, found themselves at the forefront of conscription; as second tier citizens, they were on the priority list when it came to mustering.

In 1905, Russia lost the 19-month war and lacked the funding to repatriate troops. Demobilized soldiers, including many Jews who were reluctant of returning to the Pale of Settlement, decided to settled down in Harbin.

By 1908, there were about 8000 Russian Jews in Manchuria; in fact, a third of all Russians in Harbin were of Jewish descent. In 1909, the growing population built a synagogue which would come to be the centre of their worship and gatherings. In 2014, this synagogue was refurbished into a concert hall for the performance of classical music.

 
 

Third Phase: Russian Revolutions

Members of Betar Youth Movement, Harbin, 1930. First from the right: Mordechai Olmert. [The Oster Visual Documentation Center, Beit Hatfutsot]

 

The Great War (1914-1918), the Russian Revolution (1917) and the subsequent Russian Civil War (1917-1922) brought a sharp influx of Jewish refugees to Harbin. The grandfather of Ehud Olmert, Israel’s ex-Prime Minister, fled to Harbin from Russia after World War I, in 1919. When Zionism was outlawed in the Soviet Union, he and his Jewish community in Harbin became the only representative of Russian-speaking Zionists. 

Olmert's father, Mordechai, grew up in Harbin where he was a founding member of the local Betar youth movement, an international organisation devoted to the pursuit of a Jewish homeland. Olmert’s parents met in Harbin and made Aliyah to Mandatory Palestine in 1933. 

By 1920, Harbin was home to approximately 20,000 Russian-Jewish. Between 1920 and 1930, approximately 20 Jewish newspapers were in circulation. This was a time when the Soviet Union was too preoccupied elsewhere to pay much attention to Manchuria and the Jews of Harbin enjoyed the same rights as other foreigners.

Japanese occupation of Northeast China in 1931 and the creation of puppet state, Manchukuo (满洲国), in 1932 was devastating to the Harbin Jewish community. The Japanese soon became the dominant economic power in the region; the Jews, overshadowed by their new neighbours, struggled financially, leading to emigration to places from Palestine to Shanghai.

 

Third Wave of Jewish Immigrants - Shanghai

 
 

The final wave of Jewish immigrants, scared by the anti-Semitism of the Nazis, came to China in terror. The Chinese take great pride in this part of history, because during this period Shanghai alone took in more refugees – 23,000 Ashkenazi Jews – than Canada, India, South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia combined.

 
 

Shanghai Jewish Refugee Museum [Zane Archives]:

 
 

A Jewish family in Shanghai. [Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum]

 

After Hitler became Chancellor of Germany in January 1933, Jews, previously employed as civil servants and academics, quickly found themselves without a job, whilst Jews running businesses faced nationwide boycotts. Many Jews began to consider leaving Deutschland; indeed, by November of 1933, 26 Jewish families had arrived in Shanghai and had integrated smoothly into their new city.

 
 

Germans walk by a Jewish business destroyed on Kristallnacht. [Public Domain]

 

The Nuremberg Laws of 1935 stripped the Jews of their Reich citizenship. Jews were forbidden from marrying Germans and were not allowed to employ German females under the age of 45. Subsequent laws followed which prohibited Jews from attending public schools, going to theatres, and even from being seen in certain districts. Jewish businesses had it worse; troubles which were once boycotts turned into looting by anti-Semitic Germans.

In March 1938, Germany annexed Austria. Four months later, the United States initiated the Evian Conference, encouraging all 32 invited nations to take in more Jewish refugees; but apart from the Dominican Republic, no country changed its existing stance. This was Nazi gold. Indeed, Hitler and Reich Minister of Propaganda, Joseph Goebbels, seized this as a chance to affirm their verdict that Jews were the scum of the earth that no one wanted in their country. 

In November 1938, a Polish Jewish teenager, Herschel Grynszpan, killed a German diplomat, Ernst vom Rath, in Paris. This was used by the Nazis as pretext to initiate Kristallnacht, or the Night of Broken Glass, which saw German paramilitary troops destroy Jewish homes, businesses, and synagogues; in addition to 91 killed in this pogrom, 30,000 Jews were arrested and deported to concentration camps.

 
 

Ho Feng Shan (何凤山) [Zane Archives]

 

This was the existential turning point for the Jews – staying put was no longer an option. Unfortunately, by this time, the United States and many other countries had already closed their doors and denied visas to Jewish refugees.

In 1937, the Battle of Shanghai ended with Japanese victory. Whilst the Japanese took over the Chinese regions of Shanghai, the foreign regions remained under the jurisdiction of Europeans. Shanghai’s was divided and left in a mess; no one was in charge, and border control had completely broken down.

As such, although the Jews knew little about Shanghai, other than it was a city far away from home, the option of immigrating to Shanghai to them came as a delight. 

Although one did not need a visa to enter Shanghai, it was a prerequisite to leaving Austria. From 1938 to early 1940, Ho Feng-Shan (何凤山), the Chinese Consul-General in Vienna, issued over 3,000 Chinese visas to Austrian Jews. Indeed, this was done against the will of his superior, the Chinese ambassador to Berlin, who warned him not to do anything that would anger the Nazis. 

Between 1938-1939, about 23,000 Jews arrived in Shanghai, in complete destitute.

Although there is no official count of Jews who were saved by Ho Feng Shan, it is recorded that he issued his 200th visa in June 1938, and his 1906th by 27th October. Ho Feng Shan was honoured for his services for humanity and, in 2000, recognised by Yad Vashem officially, as he was given the title ‘Righteous Among the Nations (חֲסִידֵי אֻמּוֹת הָעוֹלָם)’.

 
 

Jewish Refugees Arriving in Shanghai [Shanghai Jewish Refugee Museum]:

 
 

Embankment Building [Zane Archives]

 

Prior to the arrival of German and Austrian Jews, there were already two relatively well established Jewish communities in Shanghai - the Sephardic Baghdadi Jews, numbering roughly 800, and the Ashkenazi Russian Jews, numbering roughly 4,000. Both communities, due to differences in religious practices, were relatively isolated from each other, except when it came to helping out the influx of Jewish refugees.

 Between 1938 and 1939, nearly 23,000 destitute central European Jews arrived in Shanghai. The burden to look after them fell completely on the local Jewish communities.

On their arrival, they were often taken directly to the Embankment House which Sir Victor Sassoon, the owner, had already converted into a refugee shelter with a capacity to accommodate 2,500 people. They were able to stay there until they could find permanent lodging elsewhere.

Dvir Bar-Gal, a journalist and Shanghai Jewish historian said, “to many [Jewish Refugees], the Embarkment Building was their first roof in the new town, until they could find their way out of there to other housing or move to other shelters throughout the Hongkou district.” [2010]

The Embarkment Building was a massive luxurious, curing edifice that extended a quarter of a mile in length. It was the largest building on the coast of China.

The building was ultimately taken over by the government and turned into government housing. Three floors were added in the 1980s.

Dvir Bar-Gal, a journalist and Shanghai Jewish historian said, “to many (Jewish Refugees), the Embarkment Building was their first roof in the new town, until they could find their way out of there to other housing or move to other shelters throughout the Hongkou district.” (2010)

Sir Victor Sassoon also endowed a Rehabilitation Fund which provided loans to the refugees to start businesses so that they could become self-sufficient, and help to hire other refugees.

 
 

Jewish Business in Shanghai Ghetto [Shanghai Jewish Refugee Museum]:

 
 
 

On October 19th, 1938 the wealthy Baghdadi Jews established the Committee for the Assistance of European Jewish Refugees in Shanghai to provide the much-needed food, housing, education, and medical care to those who could not help themselves. By July 1939, assistance from the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee arrived as well, in the form of volunteers and financial aid.

Refugee life in Shanghai was tough. Harsh weather and inadequate sewage contributed to a high illness and death rate. The Sino-Japanese War and Japanese occupation completely destroyed the economy and wiped out nearly all employment opportunities. The men had even more difficult time adjusting because they mostly came from well-educated and well-respected professional backgrounds; the harsh reality of living on third-party aid was extremely degrading and hard to accept. Interaction with Chinese neighbours, themselves oppressed by the Japanese, was made even more strenuous due to the language barrier and fighting over extremely limited resources.

By end of 1939, the Jewish communities took care of the basic needs of almost 16,000 refugees.

 
 

Jewish Life in Shanghai Ghetto [Shanghai Jewish Refugee Museum]:

 
 

[White Horse Cafe, Shanghai]

 

On 7th December, 1941 Japan attacked Pearl Harbour and officially entered the Second World War. The Japanese took over the foreign concessions and now took control of the entire Shanghai. They ended all foreign aid, including that of the American Jewish Community.

The Baghdadi Jews were sent to work camps on the outskirts of Shanghai where they were over-worked, underfed and housed in extremely cramped accommodations. The Russian Jews, together with other European residents in Shanghai, not only were sent to work camps but were also required to wear armbands to identify themselves and had their movements being monitored and restricted.

The large mansions owned by the Baghdadis were now occupied by the Japanese troops. Their assets were confiscated and their businesses came to a complete halt. Many Baghdadis resorted to selling their valuables to sustain a living. The Jewish community in Shanghai completely fell apart.

 
 
 

By February 1943, the Japanese established the Shanghai Ghetto (上海难民营), officially called “Restricted Sector for Stateless Refugees (无国籍难民限定地区)”, and ordered all Jews who arrived after 1937 to move both their residence and business there. The refugees were kept in this area until the end of the Second World War.

 
 

Restricted Sector for Stateless Refugees (无国籍难民限定地区) [Shanghai Jewish Refugee Museum]:

 
 
 

With the ensuing Chinese civil war and the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, almost all Jews who arrived in China following the First Opium War left the country.

 

[White Horse Cafe, Shanghai]

[White Horse Cafe, Shanghai]

[White Horse Cafe, Shanghai]